1

My new 17"x7.5" Italian made wheels with the Korean tires. Also have some some little things hidding behind them. They wanted to make a house from them.

2

Trial fit without brake disk. No toe control rod, so the tire is actually toed out in the rear.

3

My new disk brake rotors.

1993 Toyota MR2 Rear Rotors on top
1995 Cadallac DeVille Front Rotors on the bottom

Notice that these brakes are solid and not drilled or slotted? Well I want my car to stop. So I got solid. This car is not for show.

4

Cadillac on the left, MR2 on the right. My 3 year old helper at the top.

5

Caddy vented rotors

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MR2 vented rotors

7

1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo rear rotor
This will be used on the front of my car with the 1991 MR2 Turbo front hub, and the 1991 lower control arm, Mazda RX7 Caliper, with the 1986 front strut with Koni yellow adjustable struts. RSe steering rods, and H&T MK2 front bushing set. Suspension Techniques MK1 front swaybar and H&T end links.
280mm (11.0") Diameter / 22mm (7/8") Thick

8

1995 Cadillac DeVille front rotor
This will be used on the rear of my car with the front Caddy hub and Caddy caliper, rear 86 MR2 strut with Koni, H&T or caddy rear sway bar with H&T custom end links.
277mm (10 7/8") Diameter / 32mm (1.25") Thick

9

MR2 rotor mounted on the RX7 caliper

10

The caliper brackets line up with the 91T hub brake mounts.

11

I will need to have brackets welded on. I wont do this. I will have a local weld shop do it.

12

Hmm. still too little? Hell of a lot better than those honda's with drum brakes or 8" rears eh?

13

I'll have to widen the fenders a bit to fit the rears. This will also make it easier to fit some even wider tires at a later date.

14

See, this side has some massive toe because the Tein strut pillow mounts made this side lower, so the tires would only fit if the toe was maxed. So in order to have the car sit the way I want, I will need to widen the fenders a bit.

15

Nice camber.Right now the calipers will on the front of the hub. I am going to have them mounted on the rear. Later I will mount a Wilwood E-brake caliper on the front.

12

So I was curious about what was under the rear quarter panel of a AW11 MR2. So I took the sawz-all to the 1986 Silver Rust Bucket. This is the right rear section. I did not know how one connected to the body. At the top it is spot welded to the chassis. At the bottom it is spot welded to the fender lip.

13

Pretty cool. So simple.

14

reference

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Reference

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Reference

17

Main support for the roof and strut tower.

18

Pretty hefty. You can see that the strut is supported by this section and the roof. Put a rear strut bar in there and you really stiffen up the rear. As the years go by, these spot welds get loose. Rear end wreck? Well that can make it even weaker! This is why the rear strut bar is so important. Now a straight un-bent rear with a solid quarter panel will make a nice strong box. But how many un-bent MR2s are there out there?

19

Reference

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Reference.

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Reference

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Reference

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Reference.

24

Holding the quarter panel up to the Toystar chassis.

25

Getting some ideas

26

Got a plan now. More on that later.

27

This would make a nice exit for the rear wheel well.