1

I installed the engine sub-frame. It is going to fit in there perfect. Here is the suspension installed. It actually works. Kinda surprised me. Nothing ever works for me the first time.

2

Hard to see, damn camera settings... suspension is level. The Koni Coil Overs work also.

3

I am going to use part of the trailing arm mount to mount the sub-frame

4

Nice camber

5

Nice and level lower control arm. I still need to make a toe control bar. I'll do that after I get everything welded up.

6

I know people have been asking what I have done in the trunk. Well here it is. Had to cut a big ass access port so I can run the exhaust. This will all be bosed in later.

7

I thought the hubs would stick out further than this. The big bad Pirelli's are going to fit just right!

8

Now I just have to figure out how to mount the brakes.

9

230mm from the stut tube to the edge of the fender

10

185mm from the strutto the face of the spindle

11

230mm from the frame to the toe bit on the hub

12

I'll make some brackets from 1/4" steel sheet so I can bolt this bad boy up. All of this will replace the engine mounts I made. The trans mount actually started bending. This would not be good if I had continued to use that setup.

13

Transaxle mount.

14

I will make two mounts for the front of the frame that will connect to the chassis

15

Lookin' good!

16

I still need to cap off some of the frame. Once everything is done, the hose assembly will be pulled out, cleaned, painted and shined up. This also includes the engine bay that will be painted gloss black.

17

This is the main transaxle harness wire. I have to send all of these off so a harness can be made for the transaxle computer.

18

Just another reference shot

19

That is the sensor that tells the computer where the shifter position is.This mounts over the gear selector shaft

20

This is the connector for the TPS.

21

Another reference shot

22

on the right is the charcoal canister purge. I removed that. I am just going to use the AW11 canister and circuits. It is much simpler

23

This is the EGR. I could remove it. But I want to do more research on that since this engine runs at 10.3:1 compression.

24

Stock MAP sensor. 1 BAR. I am using this bad boy for simplicity.

25

Here is the MAP pulled out

26

Reference

27

Canister purge removed

28

Canister purge line capped on the throttlebody.

29

EGR Reference

30

Reference shot for spark plug wires. I am having a hard time getting some aftermarket wires. The stock wires wont work well, or last long with the TEC3 ignition. I talked to Taylor and they should be beta testing some Northstar wires in the next few weeks. I am going to send some pictures. They say they don't have the boots. These boots seem pretty generic.

31

Reference

32

Look, way down there... a spark plug

33

I dusted off the cam cover. I like black. These cam covers need some RSe Glass Black

34

Been a while since this bad boy has been replaced. They say 100,000 miles on plugs. I say BS.

35

I knocked something down the number one hole. oops

36

Here I am starting to wire up the Electromotive TEC3. The TEC3 controls the ignition and the fuel injection. It is a stand alone system. It is programmed using a laptop.It is top of the line gear. This is the Ferrari of stand alones. No cheap Japanese stuff here!

37

Here is the MAP sensor all hooked up and ready to MAP

38

Every wire is traced back to the ECU connector to be certain that it is the correct wire before soldering. Heat shrink tube is shrunk over the weld, and the whole assembly is taped from the connector to a few inches past the shrink tube.

39

Look what I got in the mail! Aluminum hood rods. These are really sweet! One for the purple car and one for the Toystar

40

These are the MK2 MR2 front lower control arms. These are much more stout and a bit longer, thus allowing for a more agresive camber setting. I plan on doing some top speed runs, so no run-about car parts here.

41

Reference shot of the AW11 fuse box.